The Crime Guard 650i5 keyless entry and security system offers a powerful and easy-to-use solution for protecting your vehicle and valuables. This system features:

• a dual-zone shock sensor that detects violations around your car’s interior and exterior;
• two dual-zone impact sensor ports for expandability;
• a powerful siren that warns of an intrusion;
• a starter interrupt feature which shuts down ignition during unauthorized use.

Ignition-activated doorlocks, carjacking protection, and an included backup battery provide extra peace of mind. The Unauthorized Transmitter Alert lets you know when another remote has been programmed to operate your system.

The 650i5 also features an override switch for valet parking or if someone else is using your car. You’ll also find four onboard relays, including two relays that can be programmed to lock your doors, sound your horn, flash your lights, or perform other tasks. You can upgrade to Crime Guard’s Echo-2 extended-range remote contol/pager which gives you instant alarm and vehicle status reports on an easy-to-read LCD display keychain.

Crime Guard’s vehicle-specific quick interconnect harnesses cut down on installation time by attaching directly to your vehicle’s wiring plugs for power, signal, and other connections, depending on the system.

Details:

• automotive keyless entry and security system
  

  Includes:

• two 4-button extended range transmitters
• dual-stage impact sensor - chirps when the vehicle’s bumped and sets off the alarm with further violations
• Psycho Siren
• starter interrupt
• 4 onboard relays (2 programmable relays for door lock/unlock, horn, light flash, and 2 optional auxiliary channels)
  

  Features:

• anti-carjacking protection
• Unauthorized Transmitter Alert
• ignition-activated doorlocks
• 2-digit pin code (valet) override
• dome light supervision
• compatible with Crime Guard Echo-2 LCD controller upgrade kit
• warranty: lifetime

Read about different models of Crimestopper car alarms available on the Crimestopper website. You can choose a standard alarm system or a car alarm that also provides remote keyless entry and other programmable options. Though the alarms with more options are more expensive, they also provide additional safeguards which you may find useful.

Compare prices between different types of Crimestopper alarms at Shopping.com. On this website, you can also read consumer reviews and compare specifications on several models of alarms. It’s very helpful to see reviews from people who have already purchased the product. However, don’t allow one poor review to affect your buying decision. Look at the overall opinion of each particular alarm system by reading several reviews.

Look for Crimestopper alarms at car electronics dealers in your neighborhood. In your local phone book, you can find listings of such dealers near you. Often you can find sales and low-cost installation from a local retailer that you can’t find online.

Purchase the Crimestopper car alarm of your choice. Have the alarm professionally installed, as it is very important that it is functioning properly. Ask for warranty information and the details about the return policy before making your final purchase.

• Motion sensors let you leave the top down or the windows open. They are also good for protecting the cargo areas in vans and trucks. The sensors will sound the alarm if someone invades your space.
• Glass-break sensors sound the alarm when they “hear” a window breaking. This protects you from the thief who believes he can bypass your alarm by not opening the door.
• Driver’s side priority unlock lets you open your door without unlocking the others. You can get in your vehicle without letting your guard down.
• Remote outputs allow you to expand the alarm’s capabilities by adding features like a remote starter or window controls. Most alarms come with at least one remote output. Consider everything you want the security system to do (now and in the future) when choosing an alarm.
• When Crime Guard interconnect harnesses are available for your vehicle, Crime Guard security systems are much easier to install than other brands.

Why buy a car security system?
Protecting yourself and your family, as well as your vehicle and your car stereo are all excellent reasons to invest in a car security system. Additionally, most insurance companies offer lowered rates for vehicles equipped with an alarm - it’ll pay for itself!

A good security system not only makes your car more difficult to steal, it also makes it easier to live with. The small remote control that you carry with your keys lets you arm and disarm the alarm, lock and unlock your doors, and maybe even zap open your trunk. How’s that for convenience?

FREE wiring guide with your system!
For most vehicles made up to 1995, Crutchfield gives you a sheet that tells the location and color of the wires you need to access in your vehicle. For most vehicles made after 1995, we gladly provide the wiring information over the phone, by fax, or by e-mail. This helpful information is FREE with your security system purchase! You also get our free publication, How to Install a Car Security System.

We help you install your own alarm and save
When you order your alarm from Crutchfield, you can also count on the exclusive toll-free Technical Support we offer our customers. Sixteen hours a day, seven days a week, experienced, patient experts are ready to answer your questions (just have your invoice handy when you call). It’s like having a pro look over your shoulder while you work!

How a typical security system works
When you leave the car, push the button that arms your system. You hear your doors lock, and a siren chirp tells you your vehicle is protected. If you’ve accidentally left a door ajar, the system alerts you with a different sound.

When you walk away, you feel confident, assured. The first thing a thief sees when he approaches your car is a flashing LED that tells him your system is armed. Often, that’s enough to make him look elsewhere.

If the thief tries to tamper with your vehicle, he’ll get a warning chirp or a full siren blast. The security system “brain” decides which sort of warning to give based on the severity of the tampering and the type of sensors the thief trips.

When you return to your car, use the remote to disarm the system and unlock your doors or pop open the trunk. You can even use the remote to sound the siren if you can’t find your car or if someone is bothering you.

Crime Guard harnesses make your security system installation a lot easier
For most vehicles, the installation begins with a Type A harness that makes connections for +12 volts, ground, starter disable and ignition - saving you time and effort on your installation. Connect a couple of sensors and you’ve got basic protection. (In some cases, you may need to splice a few wires to get all the features you want.)

Additional harnesses may also be available for your vehicle:

• for remote door-lock control
• for parking-light flash
• for dome light activation
• for trunk or hatch release
• for remote engine start

This system also features:

• a dual-zone shock sensor that detects violations around your car’s interior and exterior. The sensor chirps when the vehicle’s bumped and sets off the alarm with multiple bumps or an interior violation;
• glass-breakage detection for added property protection;
• two dual-zone impact sensor ports for more flexibility when setting up the system;
• a powerful siren that warns of an intrusion;
• a starter interrupt feature which prevents the starter from operating during unauthorized use
• a patented databus port for easier integration with your car’s electrical system.

Ignition-activated doorlocks, carjacking protection, and an included backup battery provide even more peace of mind. The Unauthorized Transmitter Alert lets you know when another remote has been programmed to operate your system. You get up to four auxiliary outputs for further expansion options.

The 750i5 also features an coded override switch for valet parking or if someone else is using your car. You’ll also find four onboard relays, including two relays that can be programmed to lock your doors, sound your horn, flash your lights, or perform other tasks.

Crime Guard’s vehicle-specific quick interconnect harnesses cut down on installation time by attaching directly to your vehicle’s wiring plugs for power, signal, and other connections, depending on the system. Call our friendly Sales Advisors toll-free at 1-888-955-6000 to see if we have harnesses available for your vehicle.

Details:

• automotive keyless entry and security system with LCD remote control/pager
  

  Includes:

• Echo-2 base transmitter/receiver unit with 1-1/4″ LCD display
• one 4-button extended-range transmitter
• dual-stage impact sensor with glass-breakage detection
• Echo-2 remote transceiver
• Psycho Siren
• backup battery
• 4 onboard relays (2 programmable relays for door lock/unlock, horn, light flash, and 2 optional auxiliary channels)
  

  Features:

• starter interrupt
• selectable audible or vibrating alert
• anti-carjacking protection
• Unauthorized Transmitter Alert
• ignition-activated doorlocks
• 2-digit pin code (valet) override
• dome light supervision
• warranty: lifetime

You don’t have to do it all in one day. Break the job into bite-size pieces. Verify that each segment of the system works as intended before moving on. For example:

• Step 1 - Find a spot to mount the “brain” (control module) and siren. Hook the siren, LED indicator and valet switch to the brain, taking great care to route and connect the wires in a safe, secure way. Connect the power and ground leads to the brain. Test.
• Step 2 - Position your sensors in their intended mounting locations and connect them to the brain. Test the coverage area of the sensors and make final adjustments before you fasten them down.
• Step 3 - Tie into your door triggers and your power door lock circuit for keyless entry. Tie into your dome light and parking light circuits. Test these functions. When everything is working properly, secure the brain to the mounting surface.

If you have time to do it all in one day, fine. But don’t rush it. And don’t drive your vehicle until you’ve secured any loose wiring. Remember to disconnect your negative battery cable before you start mounting and connecting your system components. That will keep you from running your battery down or short-circuiting any of your components.

You’ll need to have the battery cable connected while you test wire functions or switches. But don’t forget to unhook it before you splice wires. Check your vehicle owner’s manual to see if there are any special procedures to follow when disconnecting the battery cables.

Make Sure You Have the Tools You Need Before You Begin
You probably already own the basics: Screwdrivers, wrenches and an electric drill. In addition to these basic tools, you should have the following available:

• A wire cutter/stripper. For many vehicles, plug-in interconnect harnesses simplify security system connections. But even if you use a harness, you still may need to splice some wires together.
• To make secure wire connections, you need a soldering iron and/or a crimping tool.
• Use heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape to protect your connections.
• Use a multimeter to verify the functions of vehicle wires you splice into, or to determine what kinds of switches your vehicle has. You need to test the wire because car makers occasionally use different color wires than the ones specified on the wire color sheets. We can provide these sheets for most vehicles.
• DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT instead of a multimeter. Test lights draw too much current and could damage sensitive circuits in your vehicle.

Mounting the Siren
Mount the siren under the hood, high in the engine compartment, preferably at least 18 inches from heat sources such as exhaust manifolds, radiators and heater cores. Aim it parallel to the ground, or toward the ground. Never mount it with the horn facing up. Water can collect in the horn, causing the siren to malfunction.

In some vehicles, you can mount your siren to the inner fender panel. If you have a choice, pick the spot that’s hardest for a thief to reach. Route the siren wires away from a thief’s reach as well.

If you mount your siren to a metal surface, use sheet metal screws. Do not use drywall screws. If you mount your siren to a plastic inner fender, use nuts and bolts to secure it. Determine what’s behind the mounting surface, so that your screws won’t accidentally penetrate fuel lines, brake lines, vacuum lines, control cables or wire bundles.

Mounting the Brain
If you plan to use an interconnect harness, you must mount the brain near the plug-in point. If you’re not using a harness, you have more flexibility.

Under the dash near the steering column is a likely spot.

Pros:

• It’s close to many of the wires you may want to tie into.
• It’s up high, so you should get good range with your remote control.
• It’s easy to reach, which makes installation and service easier.

Cons:

• An experienced thief will probably look there first and could silence the system by yanking wires out of the brain. If you’re worried about that, look for a less obvious spot behind the dash (behind the glove box or behind a kick panel).

Under a front seat is another suitable location.

Pros:

• Once you remove the seat, it’s a very convenient area in which to work. Most seats are held in place by a bolt in each corner.
• It’s reasonably accessible, but not too obvious to a thief.
• It is isolated from electrical interference.

Cons:

• If your car develops a leak or you leave a window down during a storm, the brain could end up in a puddle (you could elevate it on a block of wood to be safe).
• Your remote control range might suffer a bit and you’ll probably have to extend most of the wiring.
• Warning: removing your seat could deactivate your vehicle’s SRS system.

If you do need extra wire to extend the leads from the brain to switches, sensors or a power source, take the brain plug with you to the hardware store. Buy stranded wire that matches or exceeds the gauge (thickness) of the leads you need to extend. For sensors, 18 gauge or larger should work fine. For power leads, 16 gauge or larger is usually required.

If you put the brain under a seat, do not cover it with carpeting because too much heat could build up inside the brain. If you have a stereo amplifier under a seat, do not put the brain nearby. Electromagnetic radiation from the amp could interfere with the operation of the brain.

Wherever you decide to put the brain, remember to check what’s behind the mounting surface, so your screw won’t accidentally penetrate fuel lines. Your alarm brain has a built-in pigtail-type antenna wire. It is important that the wire point straight away from the brain (a drinking straw acts as a good reinforcement), or at a right angle to the brain. Do not cut or ground this wire.

Sensors
Position your sensors inside your vehicle, not in the engine compartment or anywhere else they could get wet. Attach shock sensors solidly to a metal surface, using screws. Try to take advantage of an existing screw in your vehicle. If you can’t find a good one, you’ll have to supply your own screw. As an alternative, you can strap the shock sensor down, using nylon wire ties. Do not use Velcro or tape.

You should mount your shock sensor relatively close to the center of your vehicle (under the dash is good), so it can detect shocks away from front and back equally well. When you adjust your shock sensor’s sensitivity, apply impact from all sides of the vehicle. Keep in mind that an extremely sensitive setting yields the most false alarms. That’s true of any sensor.

Locate your motion sensor down low near the center of your vehicle. Do not mount your motion sensor until you have thoroughly tested its coverage area. You may have to try a few different spots before you find the one that gives you the best results.

Pin Switches
The pin (plunger-type) switches that come with most alarms are optional. Their purpose is to trigger the siren when a door, hood or trunk opens. In most cases, you can tie into the pin switches that are already in your car. Look for the switches that turn on the dome light when you open doors. Tap into the wires leading away from the switches. They can usually be found behind your kick panels.

Some vehicles also have pin switches for the trunk and hood. Generally, the easiest place to tie into pin switches is at a floor-level courtesy light or a pin-switch wire behind a kick panel. Pin switches can have either a negative (-) trigger or a positive (+) trigger. The vehicle wire color sheet that we can supply with your alarm tells you which kind your vehicle uses.

If we do not offer a wire color sheet for your vehicle, here’s an easy way to test your switches:

With your multimeter set to the volt scale, connect the black probe to ground and the red probe to the wire you think is the pin switch wire. A negative trigger switch will read 0 volts when the door is open and 12 volts when the door is closed. A positive switch will read 12 volts when the door is open and 0 volts when the door is closed.

If your vehicle doesn’t have pin switches, you can add the ones that may have come with your security system (we also sell them separately). Some vehicle manufacturers use mercury switches instead of pin switches for hood/trunk lights. They are extremely difficult to tie into, so you will probably want to install the pin switches that came with your alarm.

When installing the pin switches, keep in mind that they require about 1/4″ clearance above the mounting surface with the door, hood or trunk closed. Never mount them in a drain path or in a pit or depression, where water might pool up.

Mounting the Flashing LED
Your security system comes with a little red flashing light, called an LED (Light Emitting Diode), that mounts in your dash or center console. Its purpose is to warn would-be thieves that a car security system is armed and ready to wail if they try to break in.

Mount the LED in an area that is highly visible from both sides of the vehicle. Check the hole-size requirement before drilling. Inspect the area behind the mounting surface to make sure there is sufficient clearance and a path for the wire.

Connecting the Brain to Your Parking Light Wiring
Your car will have its parking lights wired either off a single circuit or in a parallel configuration. Most European cars use a parallel circuit. Most American cars use a single circuit. If your car uses a parallel circuit, you will have to tie both sides into the parking light output wire of the brain, using a dual-make relay.

The vehicle wire color sheet available from Crutchfield tells you where to find your vehicle’s parking light wire. If we do not offer a wire color sheet for your vehicle, the easiest place to find the right wire is at the parking light switch.

If you’d rather locate the wire under the dash, make sure you don’t use one that’s tied into a dimmer circuit. Test the wire with your multimeter, and see if the voltage drops when you dim your dash lights. Since most dash lights connect to the parking light circuits, you can expect the dash lights of your car to flash along with the parking lights.

Starter Disable
The starter interrupt is a relay, built into most systems we offer, which ties in between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid main power feed draws a huge amount of current, so the solenoid feed wire going to the starter cannot be spliced into. The wire that you tie into is the small wire going to the starter solenoid that tells the solenoid to energize when you turn your key to the “start” position.

To verify that you have found the correct wire, test the wires at the steering column to find the one that reads 12 volts only when the starter is cranking (not while the engine is running). Following the instructions supplied with the alarm, splice the starter disable wire (or outboard relay) into this wire.

Valet Switch
The valet switch lets you bypass the system when you leave your vehicle for service or valet parking. This means you won’t have to give your remote control to anyone. The valet switch is also used for programming the alarm system. The valet switch is usually a simple switch or button that connects to a wire coming from the brain. Mount the switch out of sight so that it won’t be obvious to a thief.

Most alarms require that the valet switch be activated only with the alarm disarmed and the key on. Not following the procedure called for in the owner’s manual may result in a malfunction.

Wire Routing and Terminating
Any time you tie into a car’s electrical system, maintaining the reliability of the car’s electrical system is a big priority. Here are some tips:

• Encase your wiring in protective loom
• Solder or crimp every connection, never use wire nuts or simply twist and tape.
• Use heat-shrink tubing to protect your splices. If you can’t use heat-shrink tubing, tape the splice and secure your tape with a nylon wire tie to help keep the tape in place.
• Use grommets when running wires through freshly drilled holes.
• Keep wires away from high heat.
• Make sure wires do not rub against any sharp metal edges.
• Use the right size multi-strand copper wire with good quality insulation.
• Secure the wiring with nylon wire ties so it won’t fall into your pedals or get pinched by other moving parts. Ties also bear the weight of the wire, and this ensures that vibrations won’t put too much strain on your terminals.
• When connecting the main power wire to the battery, install a fuse holder within a few inches of the battery. Use a good quality ring terminal to attach the wire to the battery terminal.
• Use a star washer when connecting wires to chassis ground, and scrape away any paint or grime that might prevent a good connection to the bare metal and then cover the ground with silicon. If possible, connect ground wires beneath an existing nut and bolt. If a nut and bolt aren’t available, use a #10 machine screw with a lock washer.
• Run wires through the firewall using a factory-cut hole, if possible. Look at the hood release cable to see if wires can be run alongside it. Some cars will run the release cable between the inner fender well and the fender. In this case, you must remove the inner fender (the plastic guard above the tire). If you decide to drill your own hole through the firewall, determine that there are no obstructions on the other side of your drilling and don’t forget to use a grommet.

Soldering Tips

• Strip the plastic insulation back about 1/2″ on each wire.
• Slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over one wire.
• Place the two wires parallel but pointing in opposite directions.
• Wrap the bare wires around each other. Make sure you have a smooth connection, with no stray wire strands sticking out that could poke through the heat-shrink tubing.
• Heat up the soldering iron and “tin” the tip by applying some solder directly to it. This cleans the tip of the iron (the rosin in “rosin core” solder is a cleansing agent) and makes the process of soldering easier.
• Heat the wire until it gets hot enough to melt the solder.
• Touch the solder to the wire and let it melt until it covers the splice.
• Let the solder cool for about 30 seconds until it’s cool to the touch. Keep the wires still until the solder cools.
• Finally, slide the heat-shrink tubing over the splice and heat it. A heat gun works best to heat the tubing, but if you’re careful, you can also get satisfactory results using a match or butane lighter.

Crimping Tips

• Always position the seam in a crimp-on connector against the rounded side of the crimp tool. Let the tooth of the tool depress the solid side of the connector opposite the seam.
• Check the crimp connection by gently pulling on both wires. A proper connection will not come apart.

Multimeter Tips

• The negative (black) lead of the multimeter always connects, touches or clips directly to the chassis ground of the car. (Chassis ground is any metal part of the car which is physically common to the point of the car where the negative battery cable connects.)
• The positive (red) lead of the multimeter is connected to the part of the circuit being tested.
• If you poke a hole in the insulation when you probe a wire with the tip of the multimeter, cover the hole with electrical tape.

Testing the System
If you have a timed dome light on your car which is hooked up to an instant trigger or sensor input, make sure the dome light has been timed out and turned off before testing the system. Crimestopper alarms must be programmed to delay until the light is out.

When testing entry through the doors, make sure you test all of the doors. Some vehicle manufacturers use a key-sense wire on the driver’s dome light switch (this is the wire that makes your car chime when you’ve left the key in the ignition). If you have tied your door entry alarm wire into this key sensing wire, your alarm will only sound when your driver’s door is opened. Test each door, one at a time, to make sure each door triggers the alarm.

Testing the System
False alarms are usually the result of sensors being set too sensitively. If you experience a lot of false alarms, dial the sensitivity back a bit.

A remote start system is an electronic device that allows you to start your vehicle by remote control without actually being inside the vehicle or using the key. The remote start system supplies the vehicle with power and simulates a start just as if you were inside using the key.

Why should I use a remote start system?

There are many reasons that a remote start system can come in handy. By far, the most popular application for a remote start system is cold weather warm up. Imagine not having to go out into freezing or below-zero temperatures 10 to 20 minutes before going anywhere to warm up your vehicle. The remote start system allows you to simplify your life and take care of this tedious task for you. In the desert or warm climates, a remote start system comes in handy to cool your car down before entering. Imaging not having to sit on a burning hot seat or touch a burning hot steering wheel. Remote starting systems are multi-functional devices that have many applications for private and commercial vehicles.

Are remote start systems safe?

Today’s remote starting systems are packed with safeguards and safety features to protect your vehicle. Crimestopper remote starting systems incorporate in-line fuses to prevent damage due to an electrical short and when using a safety hood pin switch, the system will not start the vehicle if the vehicles hood is open. Crimestopper systems also include a Valet mode that temporarily inhibits remote starting. The valet mode is used for having your vehicle serviced or parked by an attendant. There are additional safety features built into the Crimestopper system that prevent the unit from keeping the starter motor from grinding and for faults in the installation or wiring.

What about Automatic or Manual style transmissions?

Currently Crimestopper manufactures remote start systems for automatic transmissions only. This is to guarantee 100% safe and reliable operation. Note that if you install or have a system installed in a manual transmission vehicle, it is UNAUTHORIZED and NOT supported by Crimestopper Security Products Inc.

What if my car has a Factory alarm on it?

This is usually not a problem. Crimestopper remote start systems include what is called an OEM Disarm output. The OEM Disarm output sends out a signal to disarm a Factory Alarm system before a remote start to prevent any conflicts with the vehicles existing alarm. Once the vehicle is remote started, the Crimestopper system also includes an OEM Re-arm wire to re-arm the alarm, allowing the vehicle to be protected while running.

What if my car has a passive security system that requires my key to be in the ignition in order to start my car?

You can still have a remote start with these types of systems. Crimestopper manufactures special anti-theft adapters to allow remote start installations with these types of security systems. These adapters are not included with the system and must be purchased separately. Some times these types of security systems require you to get another vehicle key and have it programmed at your car dealership. We recommend that you consult with your installer beforehand.

Will a remote start system damage my cars computer?

Remote start systems do not cause damage on their own. Sometimes vehicle computers can be damaged due to improper installation of a remote start or from the connection of a particular circuit. This is why it is important to have an authorized dealer install your system. Remote start systems may be above the level of a do-it-yourself or first-time installer. If you are going to try a remote start, we recommend that you should be experienced and have installed alarms or remote start system before. Call Crimestopper at (800) 998-6880 to assist you with dealer locations in your area.

How does the remote start system know when my engine is started?

Crimestopper remote engine starters include state-of-the-art circuitry that monitors your vehicles engine. Crimestopper systems use a Smart Tachless mode or a Tach Signal input mode. The installer of your remote start system can choose either method for the installation. The ?Smart? Tachless mode uses precise voltage monitoring to determine when your engine has started, while the Tach signal input monitors electronic pulse signals directly from the engine. Either of these two methods has been proven safe and reliable for remote starting purposes.

Can my vehicle be stolen when it is remote started?

Crimestopper systems incorporate multiple layers of protection against theft while your vehicle is remote started. When your installation includes keyless entry, the remote starter locks the vehicle while running; therefore it would require forced entry to gain access to the vehicle. Secondly, the remote start system includes a ?Brake reset? circuit. In order to get your vehicle into gear the brake must be depressed. If the brake is pressed without your key in the Ignition switch turned to the ON position, the engine will instantly shut down. Thirdly, when using a safety hood pin switch, a remote started engine will instantly shut down if someone forces entry by opening the hood.

How far away can I start my engine?

Crimestopper remote start systems include an Extended-Range (ER) on-glass antenna system. These window mount antenna systems will allow you to start your vehicle from up to 500-1000 ft. away. There are new FM models now available that incorporate special High-Frequency 2-way Paging. FM systems cost slightly more, but offer the luxury of greater range and 2-way paging. With FM 2-Way paging, the remote control is also a pager that receives signals from the vehicle for remote start confirmation. There is not more guessing whether or not your vehicle has started when using these new systems. If you are using a special RS901 add-on model, the range will be the same as your existing remote controlled system.

How long will my vehicle run?

This is usually a feature of the remote start system itself. Typically, the most common run times are around 20 minutes, however the Current Crimestopper models include your choice of four settings that include times of 12, 24, 36, and 48 minutes. Check in your original paperwork to see if your model has the ability for different engine running times.

Can I use my existing Factory Keyless entry remote control for remote start?

This is no problem for most vehicles with a Factory keyless entry system. Crimestopper manufacturers a special remote start system that is designed for use with your existing Factory remote controls called the RS901.The RS901 system can be programmed to interface to the lock/unlock system of your vehicle to allow you to control a remote start with your existing Factory Keyless remote control.

The Crime Guard 350i5 keyless entry and security system keeps your car and its contents safe, bringing you peace of mind and convenience. The system features:

• a dual-zone shock sensor that detects violations around your car’s interior and exterior;
• a powerful siren that warns of an intrusion;
• siren and horn-honk output;
• a starter interrupt feature which shuts down ignition during unauthorized use.

The 350i5 also features an override switch for valet parking, while the silent arming and disarming feature lets you secure your car without disturbing your neighbors. Expand your protection by adding optional sensors to the two auxiliary channels. Ignition-activated doorlocks, carjacking protection, and automatic/last-door rearming provide additional reassurance.

Crime Guard’s vehicle-specific quick interconnect harnesses cut down on installation time by attaching directly to your vehicle’s wiring plugs for power, signal, and other connections, depending on the system. Call our friendly Sales Advisors toll-free at 1-888-955-6000 to see if we have harnesses available for your vehicle.

Details:

• automotive keyless entry and security system

Includes

• two 4-button extended range transmitters
• dual-stage impact sensor - chirps when the vehicle’s bumped and sets off the alarm with further violations
• Psycho Siren
• starter interrupt
• 2 auxiliary channels

Features

• anti-carjacking protection
• automatic and last-door arming
• ignition-activated doorlocks
• 2-digit pin code (valet) override
• silent arm and disarm
• 14 programmable features
• warranty: lifetime

Should you need to learn about Clifford product, you can refer to the following user manual. To locate an owner’s guide, please select the model number of your product from the drop-down list below. To view a guide, click on its download link. To save a guide to your computer, right-click on its download link and select “Save As”.

Clifford 11CX - 427series Owners Guide Download

Clifford 11CX - 427series (French) Owners Guide Download

Clifford 11CX - 562Cseries Owners Guide Download

Clifford 11CX - 562Cseries (French) Owners Guide Download

Clifford 11CX - 980074series Owners Guide Download

Clifford 11CX - 980074series (French) Owners Guide Download

Clifford 22CX - 427series Owners Guide Download

Clifford 22CX - 427series (French) Owners Guide Download

Clifford 22CX - 980074series Owners Guide Download

Clifford 22CX - 980074series (French) Owners Guide Download

Clifford 330X1, 330X2, 330X3 Owners Guide